Oh dear, I've been lazy...

 Well, lazy on the blog front anyway... Since completing "Stella's Journey" I've just been busy with "other stuff", you know, run-of-the-mill, day-to-day stuff, mostly work. One of the consequences of taking three weeks off to ride half-way across Europe is that I now have no annual leave left until our next leave year, which starts on the first of June. Ho-hum. Well, there's always a few long weekends in the spring anyway...

Another consequence of undertaking a trip like this is that afterwards you are always left with a feeling that there's something missing, a feeling of "what do I do next"? I felt the same after my Land's End to John O'Groats (LEJOG) ride in 2014; it's like a yearning for something else. It will subside, but the truth of the matter is I'd rather it didn't. I'd rather do something else. After my 320-mile return ride from Amicii Worcester to Immingham kennels I asked the question, "Now, how far is it from Viișoara to Worcester?" - that lead to "Stella's Journey", buy after "Stella's Journey", the question is simply "what next?".

Well, this is all a bit deep, so I'll stop before I go any further, although if there are any psychologists following (or indeed if there is anyone following at all!), I'd appreciate your comments.

I haven't been completely lazy anyway. While everything was relatively fresh in my mind, I wrote a book! I have attempted to write books before, one about my time in Antarctica, working for the British Antarctic Survey and another about my 2014 LEJOG, neither of which I managed to finish, but this time, I did it! After many hours spent tapping away on my keyboard and trying to figure out actually how to publish something, I decided to go with Kindle Direct Publishing, on Amazon. Anyway, to cut a long story short, it's available for purchase here.

I've committed to donate all the royalties to Amicii, so anybody that does buy the book will be supporting a good cause. I'm unlikely to be the next Bill Bryson, so I can't imagine it's going to solve all of Amicii's funding issues in one go, but it will help a little.

There's also the possibility that if it does get good reviews and sell well, I may go back and finish the other books I've started.

In addition to writing books, I have been attempting to keep my cycling legs in shape by riding more "Audax" events. Audax is a peculiar branch of cycling. In the words of this article, "There’s luggage but this isn’t touring; there’s sleeping on the floor but this isn’t bikepacking. There’s a time limit but this isn’t a sportive; there are awards but this isn’t a race". I rode some Audax to prepare for "Stella's Journey" - a 200km, two 300km, a 400km and an aborted attempt at a 600km, so I thought I might as well keep things going. Rather foolishly I thought I'd chase a Randonneur Round the Year (RRtY) award, which requires me to complete an event in each of 12 successive calendar months, which would have been a brilliant idea, had I not decided to start my RRtY in September. Actually, September wasn't too bad. My October ride was a bit wet. My November ride, "Crych Cymraeg 200km", was wetter than an otter's pocket. December's "King's, Castles, Priests & Churches 200km" was icy cold. So icy and cold in fact that I rode it on tyres with ice spikes. The average temperature was -2 degrees centigrade, with a minimum of -5. The drink froze in my bottle, it was that cold. In comparison, my rides in January and February were almost enjoyable. Fingers crossed for the rest of the year...

So, the question now remains, what should my next Amicii challenge be? Answers on a postcard, please...

Day 18: Luton to Amicii Beloved kennels, 89.4 miles.

THE FINISH LINE!!!!

Sorry, didn't take any photos today, although I almost took one of Luton Town Hall, because it's quite impressive.

Today was all about getting to the finishing line. I didn't know if I'd left myself too much to do, because I had a pretty rough day yesterday, what with being unable to stomach much food.

I was a lot better today, managing some breakfast before I set off and even some cake along the way. I still struggled up the hills, but as the day wore on I started to see more familiar place names and once I got to Stratford upon Avon I knew I was almost home.  

Absolutely fantastic reception at the Beloved kennels, so nice to see the team there and better still a waiting cuppa and a Mars bar!

In total, the distance ridden according to my wayward GPS was 1,700.1 miles (2,736 km), which is about the same as riding from Land's End to John O'Groats and then back again.

I've lost over half a stone in weight, despite eating all the cake and pastries I could lay my hands on. Nevertheless, I wouldn't recommend anyone repeat this as a weight loss exercise.

High points: Meeting Fodor Dora and the team at Amicii Dog Rescue Romania , who do an amazing job with the resources they have, working selflessly to care for all the dogs; riding down the Mureș valley in Romania, some beautiful scenery; riding parts of the Danube; arriving at the finish line!

Low points: fearing for my life on some of the roads in Romania and Hungary. Although I found the drivers as considerate as possible, there were some roads that just weren't appropriate for cycling; food poisoning/norovirus in Rotterdam. Late on Sunday evening, after being sick constantly and having an upset tummy I almost pulled the plug there and then. Likewise, the consequent days dealing with the aftermath were pretty bad too. Honestly, if Ann had sent Clive to abduct me with the van I wouldn't have put up much resistance. 

The best part, arriving home to see my Stella (and Jill, of course!).

Thanks to everyone for your donations, I'm overawed with your generosity and thanks for all the comments and encouragement along the way. You wouldn't believe how much they helped spur me on!

Justgiving.com/page/stellasjourney 

Blog.goingtothedogs.co.uk 

Amicii Dog Rescue and Rehabilitation UK 

#tractivegps

Day 17: Harwich to Luton, 101 miles.

As soon as I got onto the ferry I went straight to the cabin and straight to bed, because I was still feeling pretty rough. In fact, after I arrived in Hoek I fell asleep on a bench. I expect the locals thought I was some kind of vagrant!

We docked at 6.30 and I was on the road by 7.00. I didn't have any breakfast apart from a banana and a flapjack as I couldn't face it again.

Things went OK initially, first 50 miles or so, but the wind picked up and across the flat Essex countryside it was a bit of a battle. I did pass through some nice places, sorry I didn't take photos. I started to run low on energy and stopped at a pub for a bite. I ordered a cheese baguette, but I struggled to eat half of it. I couldn't manage more.

The other side of Harlow saw me routed up some pleasant waterways, the river Stort and Lee. 

Unfortunately, while picturesque, they weren't very conducive to good progress. Plus the jolting of the bad pathway wasn't doing either my nausea or saddle sores any good.

I was trying to make Leyton Buzzard today, which would have left 75 miles tomorrow. As it is, it leaves about 90. Under normal circumstances that shouldn't be a problem, but if I can't eat and still feel nauseous I'm not sure. We'll have to see how the day progresses.

Justgiving.com/page/stellasjourney 

Blog.goingtothedogs.co.uk 

Amicii Dog Rescue and Rehabilitation UK 

Amicii Dog Rescue Romania 

#tractivegps

Day 15/16: Wageningen to Hook of Holland, 87 miles.

 This should have been one day, but unfortunately I had a bit of a bug. The morning went OK, although once I got out on the levels it was hard work in to a constant headwind. I stopped for coffee and apple cake, then headed onwards.

About 3pm I started to feel bad. Weak and listless. I bought a sports drink at a garage, but it didn't help much. It also became obvious that I needed to visit the little boys room, so I looked up the local McDonald's and went there ASAP. I won't go in to graphic details, but I was quite unwell. 

I bought a large coke, but I could tell something wasn't right. I looked up the nearest hotel and booked a room. I wobbled up the road on my bike, being overtaken by everyone. I checked in and the lady opened a storage room for my bike, but I had to run to the bathroom, where I was violently sick. I spent the next few hours in my hotel room visiting the bathroom and collapsed on the bed. Jill called me several times to check I was still alive and she also called the hotel and asked if they could bring me a coke. Everyone knew where I was because of the #tractivegps . I was seriously thinking of asking for a doctor at one point, I felt that bad.

About 2 am this morning I found that I could keep fluids down, so started to rehydrate. I still didn't know if I was going to have to spend another night in Rotterdam, but by 9 I felt well enough to wander to the local supermarket and buy some bananas for breakfast. They stayed down, so I decided to head for Hoek. It's only 25 miles, but must have been the slowest 25 miles I ever rode.

So, now I arrived in Hoek, hours too early, time to kill. Ferry sails at 10pm and I'll be straight to the cabin and flat out. What happens tomorrow remains to be seen.

Day 14: Dormagen to Wageningen

116 miles, mostly around in circles and back-tracking!

Had breakfast bright and early and set out in the dark again. It wasn't long before the sun was up and it looked very nice with the shallow mist over the Rhine.

I re-routed the first section to avoid a ferry crossing that may or may not have been running and went over a bridge in to Dusseldorf. 

I was a bit apprehensive, but it transpired that the cycle paths were very good, plus the fact that I was there at 8 am made for a quiet ride through what I thought was a pleasant city.

Half an hour later I was heading in to Duisburg, which seemed more modern. I stopped for an coffee and apple strudel before heading to the bridge that the EV15 crosses, only to find it closed. 

I had to navigate to another bridge to cross the Rhine, then rode up the riverside to another bridge, which looks like it's been closed a long time - yet another obstacle. 

The day continued in a similar vein. The EV16 was closed in so many places that I circumnavigated most of it. Eventually I came to Emmerich and it was close again. At this point I gave up and just headed straight to Arnhem. I had hoped to have time to look around, but it was already getting late and I had another 25km to go. The parts I saw of Arnhem looked very modern though.

I eventually stopped in Wageningen, which is less than 90 miles from Hoek, so I should be able to catch tomorrow night's ferry to Harwich. Then it's just the 190 miles remaining to Worcestershire!

Justgiving.com/page/stellasjourney 

Blog.goingtothedogs.co.uk 

Amicii Dog Rescue and Rehabilitation UK 

Amicii Dog Rescue Romania 

#tractivegps

Day 13: Boppard to Dormagen

I'd never heard of either of these places, but I guess that part of the adventure. Breakfast in Boppard, then off in to the wild blue yonder. A couple of nice little places before the Rhine widened out towards Koblenz and the industrial sprawl started.

 I put in 25 miles before stopping at Weißenthurm for a short rest and a bite to eat. Those are my self-imposed rules. No stopping unless I've done 25 miles, unless it's to take a quick photo. 

Koblenz was complicated. Cycle path closed and a big pile driver in it, so had to navigate around it through the centre.

 There seem to be a few closures, some easier to negotiate than others. All the stopping and consulting maps takes time. 

I passed The Bridge at Remagen, famous for being the last intact bridge over the Rhine and immortalised in the film of the same name.

Rode past Bonn, famous for being the capital of West Germany before reunification. Once again, it would be worth revisiting with more time. 

On through flat agricultural and industrial landscape then through to Cologne, which gave me Déjà vu, as I was only here in July.

After Cologne more of the same industrial landscape, until it stared to rain. By that time I'd done the obligatory 100 miles, so I booked in to the first cheap hotel I could. That turned out to be the "Top Hotel Garni", but when I arrived there it was very much closed! Not amused. There was a note that said it had been taken over by the Hotel Ragusa (only revealed by judicious use of Google translate) and I should go there, which I duly did. I was going to end up as the only resident in the "Top Hotel Garni" but they decided to put me up in the Ragusa instead. This seems to be the most happening place in Dormagen, which doesn't say much. Still, bed for the night. That's all that matters. 

Justgiving.com/page/stellasjourney 

Blog.goingtothedogs.co.uk 

Amicii Dog Rescue and Rehabilitation UK 

Amicii Dog Rescue Romania

Day 12: Supposed to be Darmstadt to Koblenz...

Well... Last night's ride was supposed to end in Mainz, but there was no way I was going to make it, so as you know, I stopped in Darmstadt. This morning I fired up the Garmin and loaded my "Mainz to Koblenz" route and the SatNav asked "would you like to navigate to the start of the route?" Normally I say no, because I am at the start, but on this occasion I said yes. What could possibly go wrong? What should have been a 25 mile ride to Mainz, turned in to a 28 mile ride to Worms! 

No idea what algorithm the GPS was using, but I think it must have been "use the longest and most complicated route to your destination". Proper annoyed.

On the bright side, I suppose I got to see Worms, which looks like a nice place. 

Once I'd manually re-routed, I had a pleasant ride down through a wine producing area of Germany. Plenty of wineries offering sales and sampling. Would have been nice, but would have collapsed by the roadside if I'd started that.

Once I eventually got back to the Rhine at Mainz, progress was good, which made me more annoyed, because I could have been 3 hours further down the valley. 

The River Rhine is a lot different than the Danube. There seems a lot more commercial shipping, although there are still some river cruises. 

I stopped to take a picture at Bingen am Rhine and a youny Dutch lady asked if I could take her photo. We chatted about where we'd come from and where we were going as we rode on together, but I was struggling to keep up, so I made the excuse of taking another photo and she rode off in to the distance. Normal speed then resumed!

Ran out of time and energy at Boppard, so checked in to a hotel using my usual method - find the cheapest hotel available. Hopefully tomorrow I should be able to make better progress, past Bonn and Cologne. We'll see.

Justgiving.com/page/stellasjourney 

Blog.goingtothedogs.co.uk 

Amicii Dog Rescue and Rehabilitation UK 

Amicii Dog Rescue Romania 

#tractivegps